From: NewLGVoice@aol.com Date: Sun, 14 Jan 1996 16:29:51 -0500 Subject: Submission: A TORTUGAS SAILING & DIVING SAFARI THE NEW LESBIAN AND GAY VOICE 1747 "S" Street, Northwest Washington, DC 20009 Telephone: (202) 483-1311 Facsimile: (202) 265-9737 Internet: NEWLGVOICE@AOL.COM A TORTUGAS SAILING & DIVING SAFARI Submitted by Andy Eddy P.O. BOX 1281, FT. LAUDERDALE, FL. 33302 Underwater slides/photos Available 1147 words This submission by the New Lesbian and Gay Voice is directed primarily to the lesbian and gay print media, as a means of distributing articles of possible interest to their readers. New Lesbian and Gay Voice prefers to distribute and communicate by Internet: It's cheaper and easier. Therefore, where practicable, please utilize our address for all communications, and, if you are aware of any lesbian or gay print media that has a e-mail address, please let us know. Distributions from New Lesbian and Gay Voice are made, so to speak, on the honor system. 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Florida's abundant rainfall saturates the Everglades. It drifts southward in a moving "River of Grass" that has, for as long as man can remember, breathed life into miles of sprawling coastal mangroves that are sanctuaries for a unique and rich marine environment. Suddenly, the land-mass is splintered. The "Sunshine State" flakes into pieces of coral bridge islands that continually drift southwest like a stream of precious gems scattered throughout an ancient mystical sea that tempts many but accommodates few. As the bridging gaps grow wider between each island paradise the merging Atlantic currents bond with the Gulf of Mexico. The bizarre marriage swiftly erupts into dancing hypnotic ripples. The miniature crests leisurely drift westward into the sparkling azure waters of the Gulf of Mexico which are frequently highlighted by an evening of fantasy sunsets. Island touring by auto terminates at Hemingway's literary retreat, Key West. Bridge links now end as only the open sea remains on the last leg of an island hopping journey. About a third of the way by boat, in a 65 mile mariner's traveled path from Key West to Garden Key's Ft. Jefferson, one also discovers the Marquesas. This area is host to only one of the Atlantic Ocean atolls that also affords some spectacular snorkeling and scuba diving for those who dare. Fortunately the land mass itself is federally protected and access to its shores is prohibited. There can be twisting currents, some surface chop but the coral shallows are blossoming with an abundance of color and exotic marine life. Then, as if magically placed, the Dry Tortugas fit snugly to the chain's cascading end like a crafted clip on a treasured artifact. It's as if some master crafter purposely set this crowing coral jewel on the very tip so it could be polished by the tropical sea and all that is nurtured in its embrace. Sailing in these seas is an adventure in solitude and ecological splendor. Diving the deeper reefs of the Dry Tortugas can afford spectacular visibility and for a Zen diver in harmony with the environment all sorts of life is at beckoning finger tips. Some deeper coral formations, the mountainous-circular-island type, bottom out at 90 feet and peak about 45 feet. Access to such sites is possible by private boat or chartered trips only. The larger live-aboards afford the comfort of such things as air conditioned dining and sprawling sun decks. But dressing down for the safari adventure is in style, and good food versus gourmet cuisine is more the norm on a hard-core diving adventure. Many of the reefs that nestle in this unique chain offer wonderful ledges and cave-type encounters that house some of the largest lobsters and crabs one can imagine. Being somewhat protected, the crustaceans can be aggressive and some of the older dwellers may very well be above the 15 pound shedding stage. It is also possible to spot a rare, secluded and somewhat camouflaged growth of black fern-like coral. To do so one must scan the rugged out-croppings with the skill of an eagle's eye and the wise attentiveness of an "ole owl." There are huge majestic purple sea fans that flutter in the current like exotic middle eastern dancers in the solace of a royal harem. Soft shimmering stands of beige pillar coral are backdrops for the dazzling shy rock-beauties and butterfly fish that skirt in and out of the vertical columns. They cautiously and intentionally avoid any strange or abrupt action within their aquatic garden. Cleaning stations abound. One captures squirrel fish pinned to coral walls as small shrimp and brilliant gobies vacuum away parasites from the receptive host. Slowly approaching a large barrel sponge, one sights a submerged grouper. Only its head is visibly resting on the top edge of the sponge inner lip. Amazingly its mouth appears to be frozen open with flared gills slightly pulsating during a pleasurable cleaning frenzy. There is no need to rush while enjoying areas still seemingly virgin and free of diver penetration. A visitor, by slowly and almost motionlessly gliding with the current, is afforded a number of opportunities to capture many critters unaware of the pending intrusion. A good Zen diver's cloaked facade is exposed only by the stream of air bubbles released as a matter of survival. Usually this is the only clue that often results in a rippling effect which alerts and scatters the cautious inhabitants but conversely attracts huge jacks who opt you as their diving buddy. Initially a fright, but then an acceptable reality, just as are the large spotted eagle rays and turtles that glide by with majestic grace. One can relax between dives or a snorkeling sojourn over a cool refreshing fruit drink, light snacks, a good book or a friendly conversation. Indeed a visit to Ft. Jefferson also offers a change of pace, some historical excitement and a different encounter with nature. Picnic tables are available there for those interested in the pleasures of an old fashioned barbecue. Park rangers are quite helpful and informative. They willingly offer time and advice affording added insight into the park's environment and fragile ecology. You are wisely cautioned that the nearest support or provision facility is 65 miles away. You must be well provided for as fuel, fresh water and necessities are unavailable in the sanctuary. If your timing is right, you will be able to climb atop the walled fortress and from its lighthouse vantage point, view thousands of nesting terns on nearby Bush Key. Their cries and chatter can be heard for some distance. They naturally attend to their migratory cycle as if unaware of the eyes attentively glaring at them through hand-held binoculars. Neither man nor spectacular sun sets -in hues of red, orange, purple and blue streaks, ribboned across the sky- deter nature's appointment with regeneration. One most obvious reality that strikes sometime during this pleasurable sailing safari is that you are alone at sea and at peace with yourself. Few boats pass and fewer people are encountered, even when and if you do visit Ft. Jefferson. You forget about humanity and become enchanted with all that Mother Nature offers in innocence. You simply lull yourself into an environmental peace that is refreshingly captivating with the beauty of all that the Tortugas offer. You begin to awaken from this adventure when you recognize the manufactured outline of Florida's historic island city, Key West. The moment your toes connect with the paved, solar heated surface of the marina -the home port which initially christened your maiden voyage to the Marquesas and Dry Tortugas- the dream ends. Reality once again magnetically takes hold. Then only the memories of what had transpired are recalled in moments of peaceful recollection or on a pictorial sojourn with unsuspecting friends mutually sharing one's treasured experiences captured on film. ********* Andrew Eddy resides in South Florida, has a Bachelor of Science Degree in Economics and authors a column "Frankly Speaking by A-Jay Eddy." He is a PADI Dive Master, enjoys wreck diving as a hobby and helped found SAA Scuba of Florida, the GLB International Scuba Diving Federation and Diving For Life Foundation. In 1994 he was one of the founding members of the American Federation of Veterans and contributes to their national publication. In 1985 he help found the "Friends of Center One' and later became the Treasurer and Vice President of Public Relations for the South Florida Poverello PWA Food Bank. Environmentally he helped organize the Friends of the Arboretum, is concerned with "Save Our Reef" and "Save the Manatee" projects and has published articles on issues from the underwater environment to religion and politics. The Society for the Advancement of Management has honored him and recently the Sunshine Athletic Association of Florida presented him with their l995 Florida Executive Council Leadership Award.