Subject: Submission: A TORTUGAS SAILING & DIVING SAFARI
From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 1996 16:29:51 -0500

THE NEW LESBIAN 
AND GAY VOICE

1747 "S" Street, Northwest
Washington, DC 20009
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 A TORTUGAS SAILING & DIVING SAFARI

Submitted by Andy Eddy 
P.O. BOX 1281, 
FT. LAUDERDALE, FL. 33302

Underwater slides/photos Available
1147 words

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Florida's abundant rainfall saturates the Everglades. It drifts southward
in a moving "River of Grass" that has, for as long as man can remember,
breathed life into miles of sprawling coastal mangroves that are
sanctuaries for a unique and rich marine environment.

Suddenly, the land-mass is splintered. The "Sunshine State" flakes into
pieces of coral bridge islands that continually drift southwest like a
stream of precious gems scattered throughout an ancient mystical sea that
tempts many but accommodates few.

As the bridging gaps grow wider between each island paradise the merging
Atlantic currents bond with the Gulf of Mexico. The bizarre marriage
swiftly erupts into dancing hypnotic ripples. The miniature crests
leisurely drift westward into the sparkling azure waters of the Gulf of
Mexico which are frequently highlighted by an evening of fantasy sunsets.
Island touring by auto terminates at Hemingway's literary retreat, Key
West. Bridge links now end as only the open sea remains on the last leg of
an island hopping journey.

About a third of the way by boat, in a 65 mile mariner's traveled path from
Key West to Garden Key's Ft. Jefferson, one also discovers the Marquesas.
This area is host to only one of the Atlantic Ocean atolls that also
affords some spectacular snorkeling and scuba diving for those who dare.
Fortunately the land mass itself is federally protected and access to its
shores is prohibited. There can be twisting currents, some surface chop but
the coral shallows are blossoming with an abundance of color and exotic
marine life.

Then, as if magically placed, the Dry Tortugas fit snugly to the chain's
cascading end like a crafted clip on a treasured artifact. It's as if some
master crafter purposely set this crowing coral jewel on the very tip so it
could be polished by the tropical sea and all that is nurtured in its
embrace.

Sailing in these seas is an adventure in solitude and ecological splendor.
Diving the deeper reefs of the Dry Tortugas can afford spectacular
visibility and for a Zen diver in harmony with the environment all sorts of
life is at beckoning finger tips. Some deeper coral formations, the
mountainous-circular-island type, bottom out at 90 feet and peak about 45
feet. Access to such sites is possible by private boat or chartered trips
only. The larger live-aboards afford the comfort of such things as air
conditioned dining and sprawling sun decks. But dressing down for the
safari adventure is in style, and good food versus gourmet cuisine is more
the norm on a hard-core diving adventure.

Many of the reefs that nestle in this unique chain offer wonderful ledges
and cave-type encounters that house some of the largest lobsters and crabs
one can imagine.  Being somewhat protected, the crustaceans can be
aggressive and some of the older dwellers may very well be above the 15
pound shedding stage. It is also possible to spot a rare, secluded and
somewhat camouflaged growth of black fern-like coral. To do so one must
scan the rugged out-croppings with the skill of an eagle's eye and the wise
attentiveness of an "ole owl."

There are huge majestic purple sea fans that flutter in the current like
exotic middle eastern dancers in the solace of a royal harem. Soft
shimmering stands of beige pillar coral are backdrops for the dazzling shy
rock-beauties and butterfly fish that skirt in and out of the vertical
columns. They cautiously and intentionally avoid any strange or abrupt
action within their aquatic garden. Cleaning stations abound. One captures
squirrel fish pinned to coral walls as small shrimp and brilliant gobies
vacuum away parasites from the receptive host. Slowly approaching a large
barrel sponge, one sights a submerged grouper. Only its head is visibly
resting on the top edge of the sponge inner lip. Amazingly its mouth
appears to be frozen open with flared gills slightly pulsating during a
pleasurable cleaning frenzy.

There is no need to rush while enjoying areas still seemingly virgin and
free of diver penetration. A visitor, by slowly and almost motionlessly
gliding with the current, is afforded a number of opportunities to capture
many critters unaware of the pending intrusion. A good Zen diver's cloaked
facade is exposed only by the stream of air bubbles released as a matter of
survival. Usually this is the only clue that often results in a rippling
effect which alerts and scatters the cautious inhabitants but conversely
attracts huge jacks who opt you as their diving buddy. Initially a fright,
but then an acceptable reality, just as are the large spotted eagle rays
and turtles that glide by with majestic grace.

One can relax between dives or a snorkeling sojourn over a cool refreshing
fruit drink, light snacks, a good book or a friendly conversation. Indeed a
visit to Ft. Jefferson also offers a change of pace, some historical
excitement and a different encounter with nature. Picnic tables are
available there for those interested in the pleasures of an old fashioned
barbecue.

Park rangers are quite helpful and informative. They willingly offer time
and advice affording added insight into the park's environment and fragile
ecology. You are wisely cautioned that the nearest support or provision
facility is 65 miles away. You must be well provided for as fuel, fresh
water and necessities are unavailable in the sanctuary.

If your timing is right, you will be able to climb atop the walled fortress
and from its lighthouse vantage point, view thousands of nesting terns on
nearby Bush Key. Their cries and chatter can be heard for some distance.
They naturally attend to their migratory cycle as if unaware of the eyes
attentively glaring at them through hand-held binoculars. Neither man nor
spectacular sun sets -in hues of red, orange, purple and blue streaks,
ribboned across the sky- deter nature's appointment with regeneration.

One most obvious reality that strikes sometime during this pleasurable
sailing safari is that you are alone at sea and at peace with yourself. Few
boats pass and fewer people are encountered, even when and if you do visit
Ft. Jefferson. You forget about humanity and become enchanted with all that
Mother Nature offers in innocence. You simply lull yourself into an
environmental peace that is refreshingly captivating with the beauty of all
that the Tortugas offer.

You begin to awaken from this adventure when you recognize the manufactured
outline of Florida's historic island city, Key West. The moment your toes
connect with the paved, solar heated surface of the marina -the home port
which initially christened your maiden voyage to the Marquesas and Dry
Tortugas- the dream ends. Reality once again magnetically takes hold. Then
only the memories of what had transpired are recalled in moments of
peaceful recollection or on a pictorial sojourn with unsuspecting friends
mutually sharing one's treasured experiences captured on film.

*********

Andrew Eddy resides in South Florida, has a Bachelor of Science Degree in
Economics and authors a column "Frankly Speaking by A-Jay Eddy."  He is a
PADI Dive Master, enjoys wreck diving as a hobby and helped found SAA Scuba
of Florida, the GLB International Scuba Diving Federation and Diving For
Life Foundation. In 1994 he was one of the founding members of the American
Federation of Veterans and contributes to their national publication. In
1985 he help found the "Friends of Center One' and later became the
Treasurer and Vice President of Public Relations for the South Florida
Poverello PWA Food Bank. Environmentally he helped organize the Friends of
the Arboretum, is concerned with "Save Our Reef" and "Save the Manatee"
projects and has published articles on issues from the underwater
environment to religion and politics. The Society for the Advancement of
Management has honored him and recently the Sunshine Athletic Association
of Florida presented him with their l995 Florida Executive Council
Leadership Award.